Make Your Own Wooden Ruler Growth Chart

A growth chart is the perfect family keepsake for any one with kids. Whether you’re a parent looking to make one for your own family, or a super cool friend wanting an unforgettable gift, creating a wooden ruler growth chart is an easy DIY for any beginner. In this post, I’ll walk you through the whole project, step-by-step.

Our Measure Stick Growing Up

Growing up my family had a “measure stick” in our hall closet. It was a piece of molding that my parents marked our heights on every few months. When we moved from that home when I was 12, that piece of molding was removed and came with us.

Now 20+ years later, it’s installed in my parents garage and is used to measure grandchildren every few months.

I thought about using our hall closet molding in our new house, but it seemed like a little too much effort to have to remove it if we ever move.

And, after doing some Pinteresting, I loved the wooden ruler growth charts that seem to be all over Etsy. I just didn’t want to pay $80+ for one.

So, I made my own. And, let me tell you–it’s super easy. You can easily make one for your family too!

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A Quick Note Before You Start

In this project I used a Cricut Joy to cut the vinyl for my wooden ruler growth chart. It’s a super useful thing if you love to craft and DIY. Or want to put your monogram on your cups. Or make custom t-shirts for your trip to Disney.

But, if you don’t have one–don’t worry about it. You can either buy the vinyl precuts from some shops online. Or, you can paint your markings on with black paint. You can buy stencils if you want to be precise. Or, just wing it!

Supplies for Your Wooden Ruler Growth Chart

• 1x6x 6ft sanded wood board
• 220 grit sanding block or orbital sander with 220 grit sandpaper (if your wood isn’t presanded, you’ll need to sand it with 60 grit and 120 grit before sanding with 220 grit)
• Tack cloth
• Pre-Stain Conditioner, like Minwax Pre-Stain Wood Conditioner
• Stain (skip this is you like the natural color). I used Minwax Weathered Oak Wood Finish
• Sealant. I used Minwax Polycrylic in Matte finish
• Foam brushes or fine bristle paint brush
• Clean, dry cloths
• Hanging Materials (I used this all-inclusive kit on Amazon. It has pieces to attach to the growth chart and for hanging on the wall for under $15)
• Impact driver for hanger
• Fine-tipped sharpie to write on your wooden ruler growth chart
• Work table or work space in a well-ventilated area
• If you’re working inside, you’ll also need : drop cloth for the floor, n95 to wear for sanding, staining, and sealing

If You’re Creating Your Own Vinyl:

• Cricut Joy or other vinyl cutter
• Weeding Tool
• Permanent Black Vinyl for your Cricut,

If You’re Painting or Purchasing Your Vinyl:

• Pre Printed Vinyl Cut Outs
• Black Paint
• Thin Paint Brush
• Stencil for Numbers if desired

Choosing the Right Type of Wood

The most important step in this project is starting with the right piece of wood, so be picky! I chose a sanded piece of wood, so I didn’t have to sand everything before starting. Well worth the extra $2! And, I chose pine because that’s what my hardware store had.

Not only types of wood accept stain in the same manner. So, if you really want a certain look (especially a darker color), make sure to do your research and test the stain before using it.

Pine can absorb stain unevenly (mine definitely is a little blotchy, but it doesn’t bother me that much). If you want to avoid that, you can use a pre-conditioner, like Minwax’s Pre-Stain Wood Conditioner. I didn’t know about this until after I started staining. Otherwise, I would have used it before staining.

Tip: Make sure to buy oil-based wood conditioner if you’re using an oil stain, and water-based wood conditioner if you’re using a water-based stain.

Size of the Board

I chose 1 x6 x 6ft for a few reasons. One inch depth is perfect for hanging on the wall and not sticking out too far. Six inches wide is the perfect width for the ruler decals and writing names and dates on it. And, the 6 foot length is perfect for a wooden ruler growth chart. We’ll hang it 9 inches from the ground, so then you’ll be covered for kids up to 6’9″. If you have people taller than that in your family, feel free to size up 🙂

Step 1: Set Up Your Work Space

Before you get started, make sure you set up a workspace in a well-ventilated area. I usually work right outside my garage in the driveway, when I’m working with stain and sealant.

It’s easy to set up and put away in between steps (because y’all know the baby never lets me complete a project in one go lol). And, being outside keeps the fumes at a minimum.

My dad got us these foldable saw horses, so I used them for this project. They’re lightweight, so they’re easy to move in and out of the garage. And, they hold the piece of wood perfectly for this project.

If you working in a place that you’re worried about getting stain or sealant on the floor, make sure you place a drop cloth down to protect the floor too.

Step 2: Sand Your Wood

Even if you purchased a pre-sanded board, start your project by sanding your board with 220 grit sand paper, either by hand or with your orbital sander. This will help get rid of any finish blemishes and also help the wood accept the stain.

Once you’re done, wipe off with tack cloth to get rid of any dust.

Step 3: Apply Pre-Stain Conditioner & Sand

I skipped this and my finish is a little blotchy, so definitely consider using a pre-stain wood conditioner for yours! You can read more about it on Minwax’s website here.

To make sure your finish is absorbed evenly, you can apply a pre-stain conditioner before staining. Apply it with a foam brush or fine bristle paint brush. Allow it to sit for 1-5 minutes. Then wipe off the excess with a dry cloth.

Wait about 30 minutes (over whatever your wood conditioner’s instructions say), and sand again with 220 grit sand paper. Wipe with a tack cloth.

Step 4: Stain & Sand

Now it’s time to apply the stain! Before you start, make sure you mix your stain well–I mean like stirring for a few minutes. My stain was almost black when I opened the can and after stirring for 30 seconds. But, there must have been a little bit of paint in it to give it that gray tinge, and after stirring for 2-3 minutes, it looked like this:

Using your brush apply the stain in the direction of the wood grain. You should apply enough that all the wood is covered, but not so much that it’s pooling on the wood.

Next let the stain sit 5-15 minutes (shorter for a lighter stain, longer for a darker stain).

Then wipe the stain off with a clean, dry cloth (I like to use disposable paint cloths). Make sure to wipe underneath the sides, as the stain can pool there.

Let it dry for 4 hours (or whatever the instructions say on your stain). Then sand with 220 grit and wipe with tack cloth again. This will help keep the finish smooth and prep the wood for the next round of stain or sealant.

Here’s a choose your own adventure point: you can just do one coat of stain, or you can do multiple. Decide what you think looks best for your project! I ended up applying 3 coats of stain, since my finish was a little blotchy (thanks to my pine wood and lack of pre-stain conditioner).

If you decide to apply more coats, just repeat the same process for each coat.

Tip Before Staining: If you’re unsure of the color, try it on a scrap piece. Or, the back of the wooden ruler growth chart since no one will ever see it.

Step 5: Vinyl Time! (Skip if You’re Painting Your Lines & Numbers)

Create your lines and numbers using your Cricut. I used 1″ x 0.13″ for the 1 inch marks and 2″ x0.13″ lines for the 3/6/9/12 inch marks. If you’re using a 6 foot board, you’ll need 24 2-inch lines and 48 1-inch lines. And, you’ll need numbers 1-6. I used American Typewriter font for the numbers, and I made the numbers 3″ tall.

Once I printed them out on permanent black vinyl, I weeded the excess vinyl off.

Step 6: Apply Vinyl (or Paint Your Lines & Numbers On)

Before applying the vinyl, or painting your lines on, you need to measure out your lines. Using a tape measure and a pencil, mark 1 inch lines along the board’s right side.

Then apply your vinyl (or paint straight lines). I applied my lines first. I did my best to make them straight using a ruler, but there’s definitely a few that are a smidge crooked.

After that, I used the line positioning to judge where I wanted the numbers. I put mine straddling the foot markers.

Where do you start your numbers?

Where you start your numbers is going to depend on how high you want your board to be off the ground. If you have a large baseboard to work around, you will need to start higher than if you have no baseboard.

My baseboards are 5.25″, so I planned on hanging my growth chart so it started at 7 inches off the ground. But, I made a mistake and I put my number 1 where it was 10 inches off the ground.

It worked out fine in the end since I have 9 foot ceilings where I hung the growth chart, but I would recommend starting at 7 inches. Then your growth chart will go from 7 inches to 6.5 feet, just so the numbers are more evenly spaced on the growth chart.

FYI for Vinyl Users: I did not use transfer tape, but you’ll probably get a cleaner finish if you do. A few of my lines are a little crooked. I’m ok with that, but if you want a perfect finish, use transfer tape and a ruler to put your lines on.

Step 7: Apply Sealant

Once you’re happy with your vinyl placement (or painted lines and numbers), let’s get a coat of sealant on. The sealant will help protect the vinyl over time, as well as the wood stain.

I used Minwax Polycrylic sealer in Matte, and it works perfectly. Some sites I found when I was researching said some sealants aren’t easily written over. But, I was easily able to write over the Polycrylic.

And, it comes in many different glosses, so if you want something shiny, they have an option for you. I had the matte leftover from my kids table refinishing project, so I just used that.

Apply the sealant with a foam brush (or you can use your fine bristle paint brush) in the direction of the wood grain. Make sure you cover the whole piece, including the sides. And, make sure there’s no pooling of sealant. It will go on white, but it dries clear, so don’t stress about that.

You can put 1-3 coats on. I just put one on, since it’s not going to be a heavily trafficked item, like a playroom table. I just wanted to give the vinyl an extra chance at sticking forever, and protect the wood from the humidity of South Carolina.

Let the sealant dry for 24 hours before adding the hanger and hanging it up.

Step 8: Add a Hanger to Your Wooden Ruler Growth Chart

Now that your wooden ruler growth chart is complete, you need a way to hang it on the wall.

I bought his complete hanging kit on Amazon and it has EVERYTHING you need: things to create a hanger on the growth chart, bumpers to prevent wall scratches, and hangers for the wall.

To install the hanger on the wooden ruler growth chart, mark where you plan on attaching the hooks with a pencil. I measured about 12 inches down from the top, and 1 inch in from each side, to make sure they lined up on both sides.

Then attach the wire. To do that, here’s what you need to do:

Thread the wire through the first hook (front to back) and cross the end over the wire.

Next, wrap the wire through the hook again (back to front this time).

Now, pull tight.

Now you’ll wrap the excess wire around the hanging wire.

Then repeat on the other wide. After wrapping the wire around the 2nd hook, trim the wire with wire cutters or cutting pliers. Or, if there’s not that much left and you don’t have either tool, feel free to just keep wrapping it

Step 9: Add Measurements

If you’re completing this project as a gift, or before your little one arrives, skip this step.

If you already have kids and have heights you can add to it, do that now!

Use a fine point sharpie and write directly on the wood.

My daughter was 18 months old when I made mine, so I went back through her doctors’ records and added all the heights from those visits to our wooden ruler growth chart. Now it’s like we’ve had it all along 🙂

Step 10: Hang it Up & Enjoy Your Wooden Ruler Growth Chart!

Choose your place where you’re going to hang your wooden ruler growth chart.

Because of the weight of this product, plan on installing it on a stud, or using a drywall anchor to offer more support. Otherwise, it could just pull out of the drywall, damaging the drywall, your growth chart, and whatever else when it falls.

And Don’t Forget! When marking where you are going to hang it, make sure you measure the height of the growth chart so it lines up with the true height.

Let me explain better with an example:

My growth chart starts at 10 inches, so I made sure my growth chart was hanging 10 inches off the floor.

The Finished Product

What do you think?! I just love how it turned out.

I love the vinyl markings to look like a ruler. And, the stain actually reminds me a lot of the old fashioned wooden rulers my school had in elementary school.

I hung our wooden ruler growth chart near the front of our home, right across from the entryway bench. So, we get to see it every day, and guests see if when they arrive.

It’s such a special piece to help capture just how little our little ones were and how fast they’re growing.

And, knowing it’s handmade by mama makes it that much more special.

Have Questions? Looking for More Home Decor Tips?

Check out our other posts, like How to Refinish a Table, Designing the Perfect Gender Neutral Nursery, and How to Create a Chalkboard Wall.

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