How to Build a Custom Entryway Bench & Shelf

The very first DIY project I tackled when we moved into our new home is building our entryway bench and shelf. Not only does it add a huge amount of storage and function right when you walk into the house, but it also adds a huge amount of style!

The best part? I accomplished (almost) all of it solo during E’s nap times over a week!

• Active Time: 4-6 hours
• Total Time: 1 week
• Cost: $400 for bench material, shelf, hooks, and 2 colors of Sherwin Williams paint (this is assuming you have the tools) + $150 for storage bins
• Help Needed?: Yes–you’ll need help holding some of the bench supports while building it (about an hour total) and making cuts. After that, it will go faster with a second person, but you don’t need one. I’ll note in the steps I had someone help and when I was doing it solo.
• Difficulty Level: Advanced Beginner or Intermediate (be comfortable using, or learning to use, an impact driver, drill, circular or table saw, and miter saw)

Seem Like Too Big of a Project?

It took me almost a month of living in our home before I got up the courage to start this project. And, now that it’s done, I was just being silly.

The hardest part of this project is deciding what you want your bench to look like, and then, making a list of the cuts of wood you need. To make it easier for you, I have a list of each piece of materials I needed, including exact measurements, at the end of the post!

If you don’t own a saw (and don’t want to purchase or borrow one), Home Depot will cut your wood for you when you buy it! Just bring your cut list with you to the store. They may be cranky at you because it’s a lot of cuts, but just ignore them. It’s a free service they offer, and you should take advantage of it! We had them cut the length of most of our pieces, so it would fit easier in the car.

Once you have these things, the project is all basic DIY skills, and I’ll walk you through the whole thing!

Ok, let’s dive in!

Planning Your Entryway Bench

The most important step in this project is 100% the planning part.

Where is Your Bench Going

Let’s start with location: Are you building your bench in an alcove, like we did? A closet? Or freestanding in the hallway? The location will determine the amount of materials you need.

Once you’ve chosen your space, measure the length you want the bench to be. If it’s a closet or an alcove, you probably want to build it the whole width. It’ll provide more places for you to secure your bench to the wall (and less places to clean around).

Deciding on Cubbies

How many cubbies do you want? For our width of about 5 feet, we decided on 4 cubbies underneath.

How did I figure this out? I wanted baskets/bins to hide the clutter in the cubby, so I did some research on those first. Most were at 12 inches wide, so I needed cubbies that were at least 14 inches wide, to allow some clearance on either side. When you add that plus the width of the wood used to make the cubbies, 4 cubbies fit perfectly in our entryway bench.

Shelf

Next up: do you want to add a shelf above? If you’re building in a closet, you may already have a shelf and can skip this step! If not, I’ll show you exactly how to do this. Just decide how deep you want your shelf to be (ours is 16 inches).

I decided on 16 inches because I wanted a little flexibility in the storage options for the top.

Finishing Touches for Your Entryway Bench

Here’s the fun stuff to decide:

How many hooks you want and where will they go? I did 4.

Are you painting the space one solid color, or two like I did?

And, do you want to do some wall detailing, like the board and batten I added? If so, make sure you get your measurements of the heigh of the board and batten, the spacing between pieces, and how many pieces you’ll need. If you want to copy exactly what I did, you just need to get the height. I’ll have the spacing for you and will help you figure out the pieces you need in a new post in a few weeks.

And, last but certainly not least, your storage containers for your cubbies and shelves. If there’s a certain one you love, make sure you make your cubbies or shelf fit those baskets–that’s the beauty of building your own bench!

Disclosure: The links in this post are affiliate links, meaning, at no cost to you, I earn a small commission if you click the link and purchase the item. To view our full Affiliate Disclosure, click here.

Supplies Needed

• Impact Driver and Drill
• Random Orbit or Corner Sander with 120-150 and 220-240 sand paper
• 120-150 and 220-240 sanding blocks for tight spaces (or to use for all the sanding if you don’t have a sander)
• 1 gallon Kilz Primer
• Angled Paint Brush
• Mini Paint Roller set
• Painter’s tape
• Paintable Caulk for wood projects
• Wood Filler
• Spackle Knife
• Brad Nailer with finishing nails
• Circular Saw or table saw
• Miter Saw (used for angle cuts for molding–can skip if not installing molding)
• Measuring Tape
• Studfinder
• Level
• Wood Glue
• Tack Cloth
• Paper Towels
• Hammer with rubber cover or Rubber Mallet
• Screw driver
• Utility Knife
• Eye Protection
• 1 3/4″ self-drilling wood screws
• 2 1/2″ self-drilling wood screws
• Sherwin Williams Emerald Paint, color: Distance, in Semi-Gloss

Wood For the Entryway Bench & Shelf

• 2 4’x8′ sheets of 1/2″ sanded plywood
• 5 2x4x8s
• Shoe molding–I used 61.5″
• 2 1″x2″x8ft–sanded and primed if available

Baskets

• Pottery Barn Mason Woven Utility Baskets in Flax

Hooks

• Brushed nickel hooks

How to Make the Entryway Bench

Step 1: Demo space (if needed) & Measure

If you have anything you need to remove from the space your entryway bench is going, start there. I had to remove the molding around the base of the wall.

An easy way to remove molding is to get this amazing tool–it’s a Trim Puller, which is made specifically to remove trim and molding from the wall. I didn’t know that existed before completing this project. So, I just used a flathead screwdriver and a hammer. It worked pretty well. I only broke one piece of molding, but I didn’t need it, so it was scrap anyways.

To remove the molding, take a utility knife and cut a line through any caulk between the molding and wall.

Next slide your screwdriver head between the wall and molding. Then tap the screwdriver with the hammer to help wedge the molding off the wall.

Repeat this step about every 6 inches until you’ve pried all the nails out of the wall and the molding comes loose.

Once I was done, I put these pieces aside, since I planned to reuse the molding on the walls after the bench was built.

This is probably the most important step in the whole project: using your measuring tape, measure the space 3 times. Make sure you measure the width you want, the height you want, and the depth you want.

If it’s a built-in (surrounded on 3 sides), make sure you get the width of the piece down to the 1/8″. A few tiny gaps on the sides can be covered by caulk, but you don’t want to be pouring a ton of caulk on either side.

My bench was 61.5″ (the width of the space) by 19.5″ tall by 21″ deep.

Height Recommendation: I would recommend going a little shorter, especially if you have kids–like 18 inches. I planned on 18 inches but forgot to include the height of the plywood when planning so it ended up at 19.5″. I can sit comfortably and put my shoes on (I’m 5’5″), but a child would have to climb up.

Width Recommendation: 21″ is the perfect depth for our bench, but I saw posts that ranged from 19-23″. Our total space depth was 27″, so I chose 21″ so you could sit on the bench and people could still walk by in the hallway in front of the bench.

Step 2: Make Cut List

Once you have your measurements you’re ready to make a cut list. To me, this was the trickiest step in the whole project and the one I sat on for 2 weeks before going to Home Depot.

But, it’s really not all that hard. I just got lost in the details.

Start by making your plywood cut list for the bench base and top. You’ll need 3 pieces of the exact same size–the width and depth of your bench. Mine was 61.5″ x 21″.

Then I made my 2×4 cut list for the base and top. You’ll need 2 front and 2 back boards the width of the space–so 4 61.5″ for me. Then I need 10 shorter boards to connect the front and back boards (5 for base and 5 for the top). Their length is the space between the front board and back board–for me that was 17.5″. And lastly, you’ll need 5 vertical supports. Mine measured 14.5″ to get a 19″ tall bench.

Last I made my cubby plywood cut list. I needed 3 plywood pieces, 10.5″ by 18″ (height of cubby by depth). I decided I didn’t need my dividers to go all the way back so they stopped around 18″.

Step 3: Buy Your Wood & Make All Your Wood Cuts (I had Help for this Step)

Now that you have your cut list, head to your hardware store and buy your wood.

If you don’t want to invest in a saw, you can have Home Depot cut your wood for you! It’s a service they offer free for any wood you purchase.

If you have a table saw or circular saw, go ahead and make all your cuts once you get home. Mark all the lines you need to cut on your wood with your measuring tape and a pencil. And, make sure you have on ear protection and eye covers.

If you have a choice of saw, a table saw is definitely going to be easier and more accurate for these cuts. We didn’t have one and chose to invest in a circular saw, since we thought it would be more versatile. But, some of our boards are not perfectly straight. We’re ok with that, but if you want perfect cuts, a table saw is what you need.

Tip: it’s probably helpful to have a friend help you support the board you’re cutting the longer cuts. The boards are heavy, and you can easily veer off your pencil mark if they move.

Once your cuts are all made, feel free to sand some of the edges and obvious spots on the wood with your 120-150 grit sanding block now. We’ll do a more formal sanding later, but I did a few spots right after cutting too.

I’d plan on this step taking 45-60 minutes. Once you get in a groove, it’ll go faster. But at least for me, who’s still skittish around saws, I definitely took a little longer than I expected.

Step 4: Install the Entryway Bench Base (I had Help for this Step)

Ok, once you have all your wood cut, you’re ready to start installing your bench! We’re going to start with the entryway bench base. You’ll need 2 long 2x4s (61.5″), 4 shorter 2x4s (17.5″), and 1 plywood cut (61.5″ x21″).

Find the Studs

To make sure your bench can support he weight of people sitting on it, you need to make sure its supports are mounted into studs.

So, before screwing anything into the wall, use your studfinder to mark the locations of the studs. You can make big lines because you’ll be covering it up. So, make sure you can see the lines once the 2×4 is up against the wall.

Install the 2×4 Supports

Once your studs are marked, use your 2 1/2″ wood screws and your impact driver, and screw one of the long 2×4 cuts (61.5″) into the back wall at each stud point. I used 2 screws in each stud to give it extra stability. It takes a lot of force, so it’s definitely helpful to have a second person hold the board in place, as well as take turns driving the screws in.

Next up: the two shorter (17.5″) side supports. Doing the same thing, mark the location of the studs with your studfinder. Then using the 2 1/2″ wood screws and your impact driver, screw the side supports into the wall, with 2 screws at each stud.

Then: you’ll install the front 61.5″ 2×4. Using the 2 1/2″ wood screws and impact driver, screw the front support into the 2 shorter side supports, again using 2 screws for each board.

Once you have the frame of the base complete, let’s add more support in the middle. You’ll do this with the 2 17.5″ pieces you have left for the base. I spaced mine out about every 24 to offer enough support for your bench.

These get a little tricky because you’ll want to attach the back of the shorter piece to the back support by angling a 2 1/2″ wood screw down at a 45 degree angle into the back support. (If you have and are familiar with a Kreg jig, this is a great place to use it.)

I don’t have one, so we just angled the screws at a 45 degree angle with our impact driver, and it worked fine.

Once you have all the shorter supports attached to the back support, time to screw them into the front support. Using 2 1/2″ wood screws and your impact driver, screw the the screws through the front support into the shorter supports, 2 on each one.

Install the Plywood Top

Lastly, you’ll want to install the plywood top for the entryway bench base. Place the plywood on top of the base you just built. Using 1 3/4″ wood screws, screw the plywood into the base. I put screws in each corner and then another in the middle of the shorter side pieces, and about 3 evenly spaced out along the front and back supports.

That’s it! I know it sounds like a lot written out, but it actually goes pretty quickly once you start.

Step 5: Install the Entryway Bench Top (I had Help for this Step)

Now let’s dive into the entryway bench top. You’re going to be repeating a lot of the same things you just did to build the base. You’ll need your 5 vertical supports (14.5″), 2 long 2x4s (61.5″), 4 shorter side 2x4s (17.5″), and 2 plywood cuts (61.5″ x 21″).

Vertical Supports & Plywood Base

But first, let’s add the vertical supports. I used 5 vertical supports–1 in each corner and 1 in the middle of the back support.

Before attaching anything, use your studfinder and mark the studs. I had to move the back support slightly off center to hit a stud, and that’s ok. No one will ever see it, and it provides extra support for the bench.

Using your impact driver and 2 1/2″ wood screws, screw the vertical supports into the studs, at least 1 on top and 1 on the bottom.

Once you’re done, place one of the plywood cuts on top of the supports. Using your impact driver and 1 3/4″ screws, screw the plywood into the vertical supports. That gives you a good base for the top bench support.

Building Bench Support and Top

Now, you’re ready to make the top bench support. You’re going to be repeating exactly what you did in Step 4 to build the base, except you’ll be doing this on top of the vertical supports and plywood, and not the floor. (I’m going to keep this brief, since I just described in detail what to do, but if you need a refresher just reread Step 4–it’s the exact same.)

Attach the back base first to studs. Then attach the 2 side supports to studs. Next attach the front support to the 2 side supports. I would also add a few 1 3/4″ screws from the plywood into the base of the front support to secure it even better. Then, add the 3 shorter support pieces evenly spaced out in the middle of the top bench to provide more stability, attaching them to both the front and back support.

Once this is done, you’re ready to put the final piece of plywood on top to complete the bench structure. Same steps as finishing the base–screw 1 3/4″ screws into the corners and then evenly spaced on all sides, about 12-18 inches apart.

Look how awesome that is! You just took that empty space to a bench in under an hour!

Step 6: Install your Entryway Bench Cubbies (Solo from Here on Out)

Now that your bench is done, it’s time to add your cubbies. The number of cubbies are totally optionally, with 1 caveat.

The way this bench works is it gets some support from the cubby dividers. So, because of its length (over 36″), it needs at least 1 cubby divider for extra support to prevent the bench from sagging when sitting on it. I chose 4 cubbies for mine.

For this step you’ll need your 3 plywood cubby dividers, a hammer with a mallet cover (or rubber mallet), wood glue, tape measure, pencil, and a level.

Using your tape measure and pencil, mark where each cubby should be.

You’re going to just wedge the cubby dividers into place. Place a small amount of wood glue on the top and bottom to add a little extra support. Slide the divider into place, if you can. You may need to hammer it in a few inches with your rubber mallet or hammer with mallet cover.

This worked for one of mine. The other two I cut a little tight, so I had to put them in at an angle, and using the mallet, hammer them into place. Check your work with a level, once you think it’s where it should be.

This was my most frustrating step because my cuts weren’t perfect, so definitely double check your cuts on these pieces before starting to install them.

Step 7: Install Shoe Molding (Optional)

If you’re installing shoe molding on your bench, now’s the time to do it. To me, installing shoe molding gave it a more built in and custom look, so I used it on our entryway bench.

I had it lucky and just reused the exact piece I removed from the wall.

But, if you need to install a new piece, cut it to the length of the bench (61.5″). Then, you’ll need to use a miter saw and cut the ends at a 45 degree angle so they connect with the shoe molding on the wall.

Then using your brad finish nailer, nail the shoe molding into the bench base. Put in 1 nail every 12-18 inches. Make sure to wear eye protection when using it!

Tip: If you need to make an angle cut, I highly recommend practicing on a scrap piece of wood first, to make sure you’re cutting the angle in the right direction, especially on the shoe molding that has 3 sides. You need to make sure your shoe molding will fit into the piece it’s going to be lining up with from the other wall. I screwed up at least 4 times when cutting the angles to reinstall my wall shoe molding. Luckily I had extra, but I learned my lesson. Practice on a scrap piece until you’re sure of the right cut.

Step 8: Cut & Reinstall Wall Molding

Because I removed all the wall molding from the sides of the built in bench, I wanted to reinstall the wall molding on the wall that was exposed on the ends of the bench. So, I had to cut down the old molding to fit the new area.

Then I used my finish nailer and nailed the molding back in place.

Ok, you’re like 90% done with the bench and the end is in sight! But, don’t skimp on the next steps. These finishing steps will make a huge difference in how custom your final product looks!

Step 9: Apply Wood Filler*

*If you’re also building the shelf, I would save these final steps until the shelf is built and do all these finishing touches together with the ones for the shelf.

Have you used spackle to fill nail holes in a wall? Well, wood filler is like spackle for wood. You want to put wood filler in any screw hole or finish nail hole, so your finished bench has as few imperfections as possible.

Never used wood filler before? It’s super easy! Apply a small amount of wood filler into the screw hole. Using your spackle knife, press it down into the hole. Then scrape away any large excess.

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Let is dry for 30 minutes (or whatever the package says). Then you’ll sand it down in the next step, and it’ll be ready for paint or stain.

Don’t worry about placing wood filler in any seams. We’ll fix those with caulk in a little bit.

Step 10: Sand & Tack Cloth

Ok, time to sand away all the imperfections! Start with medium grit (120-150). Make sure to sand over any wood filler spots, any exposed 2x4s, and any other imperfections. Since you bought presanded plywood, you shouldn’t have to do too much work on those pieces, but it doesn’t hurt to check them by running your hand over them to feel for imperfections.

Once your done, clean everything off with tack cloth.

Then repeat this with the fine sand paper (220-240 grit). Wipe with tack cloth, and run your hands over the bench to make sure nothing sticks out or needs another run with the sandpaper.

Step 11: Caulk

Now you’re going to caulk all of the wood seams and seams between the bench and the wall. This is gong to give you that custom built, professional look.

If you haven’t used caulk before, here’s a quick run down of how to apply it:

1. Cut your caulk tube open at an angle.
2. Squeeze the tube to apply the caulk where you need to. I typically apply about 6 inches at a time.
3. Next use your finger to smooth out the caulk and any remove excess.
4. Then use a wet paper towel or baby wipe to clean up any excess left on the wall. Repeat until you’ve filled in your whole gap.

Step 12: Prime Your Entryway Bench

Ok, we’re in the home stretch, I promise!

Apply a coat of Kilz primer over the whole bench, including the cubbies.

Step 13: Paint Your Entryway Bench

Once the primer is dry, you can apply your paint to your bench. I did two coats, to make sure I had the best coverage.

And, Done!

How amazing does that entryway bench look?! And, do you feel like a rockstar? Because I did after finishing ours. It adds so much function to our entryway, as well as style!

Take a break, and enjoy your amazing new bench. Then, jump right into building your shelf. The shelf is so much quicker, so you’ll be done in no time!

How to Make the Shelf

Step 1: Demo space (if needed) & Measure

If you have any old shelves to remove, do it now. Then measure your space, and decide on your shelf depth.

I decided on a 16″ deep shelf (I wanted some flexibility in the basket I put on top), so my shelf is 61.5″ x 16″.

And, I decided on a height of 72″. That would be high enough, so you wouldn’t hit your head when going from sitting on the bench to standing, and to take advantage of the 9 foot ceilings we have for extra storage on the shelf.

Step 2: Make Cut List

You’ll need 1/2″ plywood for your shelf–my cut was 61.5″ x 16″.

Then you’ll also need supports to hold the shelf up. I used 1″X2″s, as that was the top of the board and batten I also installed. So, I need 4 pieces of 1″x2″, 2 61.5″ long, and 2 14.5″ long.

Step 3: Buy your Wood & Make All your Wood Cuts

Mark your cuts and make them (or have Home Depot do it).

Step 4: Install Support Base for Your Shelf

Using your studfinder, mark all the studs along the back of the shelf and along the side, so the marks will be visible when installing the supports at 72″. (Yes, by installing the supports at 72″, my shelf ended up at 72.5″ when I added the plywood. I’m ok with that).

Then, using 1 of the long 1″x2″s as the back shelf support, you’re going to drill pilot holes using your drill through the support into the studs. We’re drilling pilot holes here (And not in the bench supports) because of how small the 1″x2″s are. If you screw your screws in without pilot holes, you risk splitting the 1″x2″s.

After you drill your pilot holes, take your impact driver and your 1 3/4″ screws, screw your shelf support into the studs at the height of 72″ (1 screw per stud).

Next, install your two side supports, following the same method.

Step 5: Install Shelf

Now, place your shelf (61.5″ x 16″ plywood) on top of the supports and drill pilot holes into the 1″x2″s. Then attach them using ___screws and your impact driver. I put pilot holes and screws in each corner, then about one every 12 inches into the side and back supports.

Step 6: Install Front Support

To give the shelf extra support for heavier objects, I added a front support to help prevent sagging. I used another 61.5″ 1×2. I drilled pilot holes and screwed the front support into the plywood, about every 12 inches. And, I screwed the front support into the side supports (after drilling pilot holes).

Ok, shelf’s up! Now, it’s time for those finishing touches!

Step 7: Apply Wood Filler

Apply wood filler with your spackle knife to any screw holes or other imperfections. Scrape off excess.

Step 8: Sand & Tack Cloth

After the wood filler dries, sand away any imperfections in your shelf and supports. Then wipe with tack cloth to get any saw dust up.

Step 9: Caulk

Next caulk any wood seams or seams between the shelf and the wall. Let dry according to package instructions.

Step 10: Prime

Now, let’s prime your shelf with Kilz Primer.

Step 11: Paint

And, when the primer is dry, apply your paint. I applied two coats for the best coverage.

Time for Your Finishing Touches!

Board & Batten

I installed board and batten around my entryway bench and just LOVE how it looks. I’ll have a how-to post coming on how to install board and batten in a few weeks–keep an eye out!

Hooks

I added hooks to my entryway bench. They added storage for our beach bag, as well as a quick place to throw coats or sweatshirts.

These hooks are super easy to install! You can use drywall anchors (or the provided screws if screwing them into studs) and your impact driver, and you’ll have them up in 10 minutes.

I made sure to use a tape measure and measure out the hook placement, so they were evenly spaced. And, I used a level to make sure they lined up.

Baskets

I wanted baskets in my cubbies, so we could hold more shoes. I ended up choosing these super cute Pottery Barn Mason Baskets. I just love the flax look with the rope handles, especially with our coastal decor. And, the base has a piece of MDF inside to help keep its shape and hold up to a bunch of shoes piled on it.

And, on the shelf above, I really wanted to store our beach towels, for easy access for trips to the pool and beach. I found this great round rattan basket from Amazon. It holds 4 beach towels, and the wooden bead detail is perfect.

Decor

Here’s where you can really make the space your own. I thought about adding some faux greenery or travel books to the top of our shelf. But, our turtle print ended up being the perfect finishing touch for the space! Turtles have a special place in our family (Steve’s dad’s USMC call sign was Turtle, and he passed away several years ago), so it’s a great reminder of him when you walk into our home.

Ta Da!

What do you think of our entryway bench?! I’m just in love!

It may be the project I’m most proud of completing (although painting our kitchen cabinets was also a pretty great feat). It’s so cool how we went from just an empty space to a beautiful, custom-built entryway bench and shelf, that now is the focal point when you walk into our home.

Have Questions? Looking for More DIY Projects?

Make sure to check out our Creating a Home Gym in Just 1 Weekend, How to Install Shiplap, and How to Install a Closet Rod.

If you have any questions or comments, feel free to post in the comments below! Or, you can always send a direct message to us at our Contact Us page.

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