How to DIY Your Own Laundry Room Shelves

Hi friends! I’ve received so much great feedback about my laundry room refresh. And, one of the projects I’ve gotten the most feedback on is the laundry room shelves. They’re such a great size and the perfect gray-wood tone for so many different design styles. So, today’s How To is going to give you all the details on how to DIY your own laundry room shelves (or any shelves surrounded by walls on 3 sides).

• Active Time: 2-4 hours
• Total Time: 2 days
• Cost: $60-$100 (I spent $60 on wood in May 2022 but used a few scraps and already had the stain and tools)
• Difficulty Level: Advanced Beginner
• Power Tools Needed: Yes! You’ll need an impact driver, a finish/Brad nailer, a miter or circular saw, and a table saw (or have your wood cut at your Lowes/Home Depot or neighbors, like I did)
• Help Needed: There’s a few spots where you’ll need help holding pieces of wood up while you screw it in, so definitely plan on having help for at least an hour.

The project itself is relatively straightforward, so if you haven’t built anything before–don’t worry! If you feel comfortable with a drill and a saw (or willing to learn), you’re good to go!

Disclosure: The links in this post are affiliate links, meaning, at no cost to you, I earn a small commission if you click the link and purchase the item. To view our full Affiliate Disclosure, click here.

Supplies Needed

The amount of wood you need is obviously going to depend on the size of the shelves you need to make. If you’re afraid of math, I’ve made a super easy printable cheat sheet for you to help you figure out just how many pieces of each you need–click here to get access!

• Studfinder
• 1/2″ sanded plywood (top and front of shelf)
• 1/4″ sanded plywood (bottom of shelf or feel free to use more 1/2″ sanded plywood if you prefer. I chose 1/4″ because it’s thinner and cheaper)
• 2×2 by 8 ft (back and interior supports)
• Miter Saw
• Table Saw (or have the hardware store cut your plywood to size)
• 3″ Self-drilling or self-tapping wood screws (usually gold) to build the support
• Impact Driver with Correct Bit for Your Screws (Mine was star-shaped)
• Wood Glue
• 2″ finish nails
• Finish nailer
• Level
• 220-240 grit sanding blocks or Electric Sander with 220-240 grit sandpaper
• Tack cloth
• Wood Conditioner or Pre-Stain–I used Minwax Pre-Stain
• Stain of choice-I used Minwax Weathered Oak Stain
• Sealer–I used Minwax Polycrylic in Matte Finish
• Fine bristle brush
• Clean dry rags or paper towels
• Pencil
• Dapp Alex White Trim Caulk and caulk gun
• Ear and Eye Protection
• N95 mask

Step 1: Demo Your Space (if needed)

Ok before I get down to the nitty gritty of buying supplies and measuring for cuts when DIYing your laundry room shelves, I demo my space. I find you get way more accurate measurements without the distraction of your old shelving. And, you can better visualize the spacing of where you’re placing your shelves.

So for me, this meant removing the old wire shelving and patching a few holes that wouldn’t be covered by the new shelves.

I also went ahead and painted the space, so I didn’t have to worry about getting paint on my freshly stained shelves.

Step 2: Plan Your Shelves & Mark Your Studs

Ok, now that the space is all cleaned up and ready to go, it’s time to plan the details of your shelves.

Planning For Your Shelves

How many shelves do you want? How far apart do you want them to be? Do you want a small lip on your shelves, or do you want them to be flush? Are there any special considerations for your space?

For example, I wanted my bottom shelf to be an inch higher than the top of the washer lid when opened. So, that gave me the bottom height of the bottom shelf. And, I didn’t want to hit the shelf when I was changing out my laundry, so the depth of my bottom shelf was 8″.

I made the depth of my top shelf 12″ because most storage baskets are built for 12″ shelves at a minimum.

The width of my shelves was going to be 2.75″ (1/2″ plywood top + 1.5″ support + 1/4″ plywood bottom).

And, I wanted to store a large thing of detergent on the bottom shelf, so I knew the spacing between the top and bottom shelf had to be at least 14″.

With those measurements, I was able to figure out I had room for 2 shelves, and I marked the spacing with a pencil directly on the wall.

Mark the Studs

Now, use your stud finder to mark all the studs on the back and side walls I marked all the studs at one shelf height, then used my level to transfer those measurements to the studs at the right height for the other shelf.

Step 3: Make Your Cut List & Prep All Your Wood Cuts

Now that you’v’e planned the size of your shelves, you can plan your cut list for the shelves. I used 2x2s for the supports on the back, sides, and on each stud, 1/2″ plywood for the top of the shelf, and to save a little money 1/4″ plywood for the bottom of the shelves.

If you need help with the math, make sure you download my printable cheat sheet to make your cut list for your shelves!

Once you have your cuts, add up how much of each piece of wood you need and make sure you add a little extra in case of errors–you can always return it if you don’t need it. But to be honest, I always make a mistake in cutting something, so I always use it.

Now, go buy your supplies! And, if you need your plywood cut, make sure to call ahead of time to make sure the saw is working. I’d say 50% of the time, the saw at the store is broken, so we have to drive to another one .

When you get back home, cut everything–using the miter for your 2x2s and your table saw for your plywood cuts.

Step 4: Sand Your Plywood

Once last step before we get started on the install–sand down your plywood. I used my orbital sander and 240 grit sandpaper, but you can always use a sanding block and a lot more elbow grease. Make sure to wear your eye protection and face mask!

Yes, we spent a little extra money to get sanded plywood, and that took out 90% of the sanding work you have to do. But, it definitely pays to sand it again with fine grit sandpaper before you install it. The extra sanding will give you that smooth to the touch finish you want with any furniture.

After you’ve sanded the plywood pieces, wipe them off with tack cloth to get any sawdust off the pieces.

Step 5: Install Your Shelf Supports

Ok, now you’re ready to get started on DIYing your own laundry room shelves. This is where you definitely need someone to help, so make sure you have a friend ready to help you hold pieces up.

You’ll need your impact driver, your 2x2s, your level, and your self-driving wood screws for building the shelf supports.

Back Support

First up: Let’s install the back support. Hold the back support 2×2 up and screw it into each stud and each corner, using your self-drilling wood screws and your impact driver.

I usually screw the middle one in first. Then, place your level on top of the 2×2, and make sure it’s level before drilling in each corner.

And, make sure you have your eye protection and ear covers–this will get loud, especially if you’re in a small space, like a laundry room.

Tip: Try to place in the upper half of the 2x2s, but not too close to the edge. You’re going to by screwing into this same spot with your middle supports, so you want to make sure there’s room for both screws.

Side Supports

Then install your side supports. You’ll screw these into the back support at a 45 degree angle and the stud in your side wall.

If there isn’t a stud in the side wall near your support, you can place a screw into drywall just to help hold it still while you’re building your shelf, but know that drywall screw will not be supportive in anyway. Your supports will be getting their strength from the back support and back wall stud.

Middle Supports

Lastly, install your middle supports (the 2x2s going into the studs in the middle of the wall). You’ll by using your impact driver and screwing your screws in at a 45 degree angle so that you hit the 2×2 middle support, the 2×2 back support, and the stud in the wall.

If you haven’t done this before, screwing something in at an angle can seem a little daunting. But, don’t worry too much about it! Once you get the first one in, it’ll be super simple from here on out. And, if you miss, just back the screw out and try again. (You’ll know if you’re in the right place because the support won’t move when you lightly shake it.)

After you have all those up, your supports are built! Now it’s time for the plywood!

Step 6: Install Your Plywood Top and Bottom

Now You’re ready to install the top and bottom of your shelf. The order doesn’t matter, but I did the top first because it’s easier.

Before you glue your plywood down, place the sheet of plywood up on the supports to make sure it’s cut correctly. I had to trim 1/8″ off the width of my plywood and had already put the glue down, so I was moving super quickly!

Once you’re sure your plywood fits, take it off. Place a small bead of wood glue along the top of each of the 2×2 supports. Then place your plywood on top.

And, to give it a little added support while the glue is drying, use your finish nailer and place a few finish nails in each of the supports. Make sure you wear your eye protection and ear protection while nailing.

(Did you know wood glue is stronger than finish nails? Because I didn’t until I started building my own shelves.)

Once the top shelf is in place, repeat the same process with the bottom of the shelf. Double check that it fits, wood glue, then nail in place.

Step 7: Install Your Plywood Front

Last step in the build process! By this point you can clearly see what your shelf is going to look like, and I hope you’re loving it!

Installing the plywood fronts looks just like installing the plywood in the previous step. You’re just going to make sure the front is level before nailing it in place.

So, apply glue to each of the supports and the edges of the plywood tops and bottoms. Then make sure it’s level, and nail it in place with your finish nailer.

Voila! You just built yourself a shelf! Congratulate yourself a little bit, then dive into the next step!

If you’re installing more than one shelf, go back and install the rest of the shelves before staining.

Step 8: Apply Stain

Ok, this step is all about bringing your personality to the space. I really wanted wood-toned shelves for a natural element in my laundry room, so I used Weathered Oak stain from Minwax. It can give an almost driftwood color, perfect for the coastal modern vibe I was going for.

So, make sure you choose the right stain or paint for whatever feel you’re going for!

Tip for the Weathered Oak stain: Stir it well! This stain has a little gray paint to give it that weathered look, and it settles in the bottom. Make sure you mix it from the bottom and stir well. Otherwise, you’ll get an uneven finish to your stain.

Before applying the stain, run the tack cloth over it one more time to get any debris from the install. and then, apply your pre-stain wood conditioner to your shelf. This will help your shelf absorb the stain evenly throughout.

Then, using your fine-bristled paint brush, apply your stain in one direction. And, make sure you wipe the stain off using a dry cloth, following your packaging directions (mine was within 15 minutes).

I applied 2 coats to get this shade with my wood, but do what looks best to you!

Step 9: Apply Sealant

After staining, you’ll need to seal your shelves to protect the wood. With the polycrylic sealant I used, you need to wait 24 hours after your last coat of stain before putting the polycrylic on, so make sure you check your sealer to see when it’s safe to apply.

Then using your fine-bristled brush, apply your sealant. I applied 3 coats on my shelves.

Step 10: Apply Caulk

Ready for the last step? To give your shelves that built in, finished look, make sure you caulk along all the edges. To get a super smooth finish, make sure to only use a little bit of caulk–just to cover the seam of the shelf and the wall. And, I use baby wipes to clean up any excess caulk on the shelf and wall.

That’s It! You Just Built Some Shelves!

How cool is that?! You just built some shelves.

It really was a lot easier than I expected, if you get the measurements right and use the right tools.

Now, find yourself some pretty storage baskets and you’re all set!If you like the ones I used, you can find them linked below (they’re from Target and they’re $10!)

Don’t Forget to Grab Your FREE Printable Cut List Worksheet!

Just click here to get a copy of my FREE printable cut list worksheet straight to your inbox!

Have Questions? Looking for How To Projects?

Check out our post How to Build an Entryway Bench, How to Install a Closet Rod, and How to Make a Ruler Growth Chart!

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